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Some things every model & actor should know

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Headshots Advice:
Some things every model & actor should know about headshots
Written by Los Angeles photographer, Zero Dean.
Reprinting or duplication without permission is prohibited. © Zero Dean

PART 1 : HEADSHOTS DETAILS

AUTHOR'S NOTE: I would like to give special thanks and credit to Hollywood casting direction, Bonnie Gillespie, for inspiring this article as well as her generous sharing of information. For more headshots related goodness, please be sure to see her headshots columns at Showfax, including, "Bad Headshots, Good Headshots" and "Bad Headshots, Good Headshots II" as well as our headshots related Q&A blog exchange on MySpace.

What is a headshot? What is a headshot for?

A headshot is, in most cases, an 8"x10" photo taken of a model or actor. A headshot commonly encompasses a subject's head and shoulders, with the focus being almost completely on the subject's face. However, some "headshots" can often include as much as 3/4 of the subject's body (called a "three quarter" shot).

An 8"x10" headshot is essentially "a business card for actors" which is presented to casting directors who decide whether a person has the right "look" for a particular part for a role in a movie, tv show, or theatrical part. It is not a "glamour shot".

A good headshot is intended to market a person "as they are" (you should look your age, for example), but in as positive light as possible, accentuating the subject's best qualities. A good headshot will often provide the viewer with a glimpse into the person's character, or show their potential for a particular role a casting director is looking to fill.

Some photographer may claim that their headshots will get you work, but this isn't entirely true. A good headshots can help you get your foot in the door and called in for an audition, but it won't get you hired if you can't follow it up with your acting chops.

A headshot is almost 100% of the time the absolute only thing a casting director has to judge you by. And if your headshot isn't good and grab their attention in about 1/2 of a second, you'll get passed over without a second chance or a second thought.

What makes a good headshot?

While there is no magic formula to creating a perfect headshot, and there are exceptions to every "rule", many of the best headshots have the same things in common...

A good headshot will focus on the subject and only include what is necessary in the photo to show a casting director that you have potential for a part. Nothing in the photo (jewelry, clothing, hairstyle, background, props, etc) will distract the viewer from the main point of interest.

A good headshot will be an accurate and realistic representation of the subject. It won't make you look younger. It won't make you look like someone else.

A good headshot will generally "invite" the viewer in and make them want to know more about the subject. This can be done through a combination of lighting, composition, and expression.

A good headshot will avoid overly dramatic (shadowed) lighting. Good headshots are not intended as "fashion shots". A photo can work perfectly as a fashion shot, but fail miserably as a headshot.

When do you need a headshot? When should you update your headshot?

If you're an actor wishing to audition for roles, headshots are an absolutely necessary part of the process.

You should update your headshot any time your look or, in some cases your personal style, significantly changes from that of your headshot. Your headshot is supposed to be an accurate and realistic representation of what you currently look like. If you have shoulder length hair and you suddenly go for a pixie cut, you need to update your headshot.

How much do headshots cost?

This is sort of a trick question. Why? Because you can pay a little or a lot for headshots. It just depends on your budget, the quality of the headshots you want, and the number of options you'd like to have, such as: number of "looks", number of wardrobe changes, number of photos taken, number of hours you wish to shoot, and whether or not you wish to hire a hair stylist or a make-up artist. Different photographers provide different options at different prices.

With that said, for a strictly headshots only shoot, folks should expect to pay between $200 and $400 depending on the photographer and the options provided.

You can always pay less. And, of course, many people want to pay as little as possible for headshots, but truly good headshots are an investment that can easily pay for themselves in the opportunities they create.

You probably don't buy the absolutely cheapest shoes you can find, so my advice, when shopping around for a photographer is not to pay for the absolutely cheapest photographer you can find either.

PART 2 : HEADSHOTS PHOTOGRAPHERS, STYLISTS, AND MAKE-UP ARTISTS

How to find a good headshots photographer:

Finding a "headshots photographer" (or any photographer) nowadays is not tricky. Finding the "right" headshots photographer is, and that's precisely because photographers are so common and the photography field is so competitive.

You can always find "cheap" or "budget" headshot photographers nowadays. And by that I mean photographers willing to provide their services for what seems like a really good super low rate. But be careful. If working with a professional photographer matters to you (and by "professional" photographer, I mean someone who makes a living taking photographs), photographers who charge next to nothing for their work may not be professional photographers at all. It's more likely that any photographer charging that little for their services has another job, and it's not photography.

If you're serious about your career, do you really want to shoot with a photographer who doesn't value their own work highly enough to charge a reasonably rate for it? Probably not, but it's entirely up to you.

Does hiring a professional headshots photographer matter?

If you're extremely lucky, like to take risks, and can actually find someone who is truly skilled at taking photos and knows how to get the best from the people they work with, then no, hiring a professional photographer may not matter. But for people who are less adventurous and serious about getting great headshots, don't gamble. Why? Because beyond just getting your photos taken, you should also consider the quality of the "service" provided.

In the very competitive business of acting, any advantage you can give yourself over your competition can be huge.

Who do you think will strive to provide you with better service? The photographer whose livelihood depends on it, or the person who simply has a camera, already has a full-time job, and is simply looking to make a few extra bucks?

Professional photographers who have a name, or are developing a name for themselves, know that reputation and customer referrals are an important aspect of the business. They know that providing a quality service is important. This can mean a lot of things, from looking out for your overall comfort during a shoot to delivering the products you paid for on time.

Don't underestimate the importance of hiring a professional. It's not just about having the ability to take a decent photo. A good professional photographer will know how to get you to relax in front of the camera and evoke the best poses and looks out of you, will provide suggestions, and knows how to accentuate your positive features and traits through the lens.

Those who are providing headshots and photography outside of their dayjob typically have much less incentive to give their clients 110%.

How to choose a good headshots photographer:

When looking for a good headshots photographer, you should have a couple goals in mind:

1) Find a headshots photographer you believe you will be comfortable shooting with. I firmly believe that being able to "hit it off" with a photographer and develop a good rapport with them can make a huge difference in the way your headshots turn out. When you're comfortable and enjoying what you're doing, it's much easier to project one's self to the camera in a confident, comfortable, and positive fashion. You're also much more likely to feel comfortable experimenting with different looks, facial expressions, etc. which can lead to some truly unique, eye-catching, and outstanding headshots. Smiles are genuine, not fake, and expressions tend to be much more vibrant and alive.

If at all possible, take some time to speak with your prospective photographer(s) beforehand to try and get an idea of what their personality might be like and how they communicate.

2) Find a headshots photographer whose portfolio demonstrates that they can take quality, professional looking headshots done in a style that you really like. It should go without saying that you should like the work of the photographer you choose to work with. You may not feel like a definitive judge of what makes a perfect headshot, but it is important that whichever headshot photographer you choose consistently demonstrates in their portfolio that they can take the types of photos you are looking for.

If you love a photographer's style and the work they have in their portfolio, the chances are very good that you will love the work they do with you.

Photographers' "style", what to avoid:

Some photographers work hard at developing a particular "style" of headshots in order to stand out in the very competitive business of headshots. In some cases, this will make no difference one way or the other, provided you like that particular style.

However, there is an increasing trend by some headshot photographers to overly crop a photo. This means to cut off or exlude certain features of a subject, such as hair, foreheads, chins, ears, etc. In some cases, this is perfectly acceptable. But in other cases, extreme cropping is a sure sign that your photo will end up in the casting director's "rejected" pile.

Basically, if your headshot is hiding a particular feature from a casting director that they feel is significant, then your photo has been excessively cropped. Overly cropping an actor's hairline can lead the casting director to believe you may be bald. Maybe the ear that is conspicuously left out of the photo is disfigured? Maybe you have a huge scar on your chin. If it's not in the photo, they won't know.

Over-cropping is bad. Avoid it.

"Celebrity" Photographers:

Whether it's a photographer who is a celebrity or it's a photographer who has worked with celebrities, keep in mind that it really doesn't matter at all when it comes to your headshots. A casting director just wants to see a good headshot. They don't have any idea or even care about who the photographer has worked with in the past. So as much as the photographer themselves may impress you, all that really matters is the quality of your headshot. So be sure to choose a photographer based on the quality of their work and not the celebrities they've worked with.

Do you need a make-up artist for your headshots?

Good make-up artists can definitely help hide your flaws and accentuate your features and they can be a vital part of a photo shoot, but headshots should be an accurate and realistic representation of "you", not a glamourized version. For headshots, you should good, but without looking like you're wearing make-up. This means that if you feel the need to hire a make-up artist, you will probably want to stick to "natural" looking make-up and avoid heavy eyeliner, eyeshadow, lipstick, etc.

It is very important that if a casting director chooses to review you, based on your headshot, that you actually look like your headshot. If you feel you require make-up, but are comfortable doing your own, then you probably don't need a make-up artist.

Do you need a hair stylist when getting your headshots done?

The style of your hair in your headshots should be one that is easy for you achieve. And if it's easy for you to achieve, then hiring a hairstylist for your headshots shoot probably isn't necessary. With that said, it is important that your hair is presented in a fashion that doesn't distract the viewer. If it's unkempt or unruly, then you should get it taken care of (ie cut and styled) well in advance of your shoot.

PART 3 : HEADSHOTS How to prepare for your headshot

Physical preparation:

Before you get your headshots done, be sure to examine your face, eyebrows, and hairstyle to determine if any minor adjustments may help. I'm not suggesting cosmetic surgery! I'm talking about plucking your eyebrows or possibly getting your hair trimmed.

Be sure to take care of all hair removal prior to a shoot, but leave at least 2-3 days between when you wax/shave any sensitive areas and your shoot date. This time is necessary to allow for any irritation to disappear before your shoot.

Although the focus will be on your face, take care of your nails in case they end up in the shot. Be sure that your nails are neat and well maintained. If you plan on posing barefoot, be sure your feet and toes are in good condition.

If you plan on showing your smile, be sure that your teeth are ready for prime-time. If your teeth are discolored, you may want to consider having them cleaned/whitened.

72 HOURS BEFORE YOUR SHOOT

Be sure you have worked out all the necessary details about your shoot. You should know where you're supposed to go, the easiest & fastest way to get there, and what you need to do to prepare for your shoot.

Please be sure that you know how to get to the location where you are shooting. If you are working with a make-up artist, please be sure that they are aware of these directions as well.

You should also have a good idea of what items you are going to bring to your shoot.

24-48 HOURS BEFORE YOUR SHOOT

Eat healthy. Drink plenty of water. Avoid fatty, greasy, and salty foods prior to shooting. Avoid heavy exposure to the sun. Please avoid alcohol or anything that will make you puffy or bloated. Also avoid anything that may stain your teeth.

Assemble what you'll need at least the night prior to your appointment so you are not rushing around in the time before leaving for your shoot.

THE DAY OF YOUR SHOOT

Please eat a light meal before you leave. Food is fuel and if you skip your meals before shooting, chances are you'll run out of energy, lose focus, or become irritable. None of which will improve your photos.

Please bring bottled water, snacks, and anything else necessary to keep you going, but avoid bringing anything that will stain your teeth.

What to wear at a headshots shoot:

Clothes should be neat, clean (free of stains, lint, hair), and free of wrinkles.

I recommend solid color clothing, with no polka dots, no wild prints, and no distracting stripes. Clothing of this type can have a tendency to distract the viewer from the most important subject in your photos, you. Pastel colors are typically not recommended. Neither is white or black, but more importantly, you should avoid anything that clashes with your skin tone. Colors that compliment your skin tone are appropriate. If you feel you look really good in something, even if it doesn't abide by "the rules", bring it.

Avoid dressing in "character". Be you.

What not to wear for your headshots shoot:

Avoid wearing distracting jewelry or anything that may distract the viewer from your face.

Avoid wearing "costumes". Your skills as an actor should allow you to suggest a part without "wearing" a part.

PART 4 : HEADSHOTS PRINTING OPTIONS

Color headshots or black &white?

Color headshots are in, B&W headshots are out. If you shoot with a digital photographer, it's easy to get both color and black &white if you prefer the option.

Headshots with borders or no borders ("full bleed")?

Headshots with borders are currently most common. However headshots without borders (called "full bleed") are acceptable, though some people consider them "tacky" looking. However, some photos may actually look better without borders.

In the end, it's a personal preference so you should do whatever it is that you think presents your headshot in the best possible light.

If a casting director disregards your headshot, it won't be because of your borders (or lack thereof). If you have the look that the casting director is seeking, then you'll get called in whether your headshot has borders or not.

So if you like headshots with borders, get headshots with borders. If you like headshots without borders, get headshots without borders.

Horizontal or vertical headshots?

This refers to headshots taken in "portrait" or "landscape" orientation. Currently headshots in both orientations are acceptable. As with borders, if a casting director thinks your look is right for the part, you'll get called in, regardless of whether your headshot is in vertical or horizontal format.

Some people believe that headshots taken in horizontal (landscape) orientation tend to look for "cinematic".

PART 5 : REVIEWING YOUR HEADSHOTS

Critiques and feedback, who can you trust?

As your headshot is intended to be an accurate representation of what you look like, one should be careful about the feedback sometimes given by certain individuals. And by that I mean the people that you are most likely to get feedback from first, your family and close personal friends. This does not mean you should invalidate any feedback you receive from family or friends, it just means you should also solicit feedback from people outside of this circle.

Who can you trust? Well, with regards to providing feedback as to whether your headshot actually looks like you, almost anyone who isn't a close friend or relative. But when it comes to judging the effectiveness of your headshots, it's a bit more difficult.

Probably the people who can most accurately assess your headshots are casting directors. However, it is entirely unlikely you have one at your disposal. Probably the next "most qualified" people are professional photographers who have headshots experience, BUT for obvious reasons you'll still need to take what any photographer says about your headshots with a grain of salt. Particularly if they are not positive and especially if it seems the reason they are being critical is simply to get your business. With that said, not every professional photographer has their own agenda.

How to get feedback on your headshots

A good way to get feedback concerning your headshots from complete strangers is via the internet. Acting related sites often have forums in which actors can post their headshots for review. Although this can be a good way to get feedback, it isn't necessarily a good way to get good feedback. The problem is that many people simply aren't qualified or informed enough about what makes a headshot good to really provide entirely accurate feedback.

In fact, in some cases it appears that the general "acting public" at large is far too forgiving of less-than-professional looking headshots. And when it comes to your headshots, it is important to be critical.

What can be effective in public forums is to provide a number of headshot options (your "top 5-15" for example) for people to choose from and and them to pick the best and to tell you why. And if they don't like a headshot or a series of headshots for a reason, ask them to tell you why. It is always good to be aware of why people think something isn't working. You can go to your next headshots photo shoot armed with the knowledge and hopefully come out with a better series of headshots.